Shroud Cay to Warderick Wells, Exumas – 17 NM | 3 hours 22 minutes
A Weather-Driven Exit from Shroud
We didn’t want to leave Shroud Cay, but the forecast gave us no choice. Winds were predicted to hit 30 to 35 mph, and like most Bahamian islands, Shroud offers little protection. The islands are flat, and when the wind comes through, you feel it.
We spent most of the morning checking charts and reading posts in No Foreign Land, the app cruisers use to share tips. That’s where I saw it, a comment about Warderick Wells being one of the only places in the Exumas with 360 degrees of protection. That sounded perfect.
But there was a catch.
There are only 22 mooring balls available, and you have to call the Exuma Land and Sea Park on VHF radio to request one.
Trying Our Luck on the Radio
I turned on our VHF and listened closely, waiting for the cue to make a reservation. It felt like a long shot, but we were running out of options. Worst case, we’d anchor just outside and hope for the best.
When I finally heard the Bahamian voice crackle through the speaker, she called for SV Kismet. I quickly responded and asked for a mooring ball. She said none were available.
My heart sank.
But then she added, “Don’t worry, you’re third on the waiting list. Call again in the morning. You just might get one.”
We spent the rest of the day soaking in the last of the sunshine and light winds, beachside and hopeful.
The Wait and the Call
We left Shroud the next morning at 6:45 a.m. for the three-hour trip to Warderick Wells, hoping for a miracle. It was a smooth motor sail, but we were both impatient for the 9 a.m. update from the park.
Finally, her voice came back on the radio. I requested a mooring inside the park and mentioned we draw five and a half feet.
She hesitated.
Then she said no one had checked out yet, but she would call us if something opened up.
Patience was hard, but we held on. And then it happened.
“SV Kismet, come on in to Ball Number 9.”
Wrong Turn, Right Place
We were ecstatic. We followed what little guidance we could find on Navionics and began making our way in.
Suddenly, we heard shouting from nearby boats.
“Turn! Turn!”
We had misread the entrance and were heading straight for the reef.
Warderick Wells has a very narrow channel, and there’s zero room for error. We quickly corrected course and made our way to Ball 9.
Two kind sailors came over in their dinghies to help us tie off. Between the wind, current, and tide, we needed all the help we could get.
We finally secured the boat and settled in with a cold beer and some much-needed lunch.
The Banging Begins
A few hours later, we started hearing a strange sound, low, hollow, and rhythmic. It was our hull knocking against the mooring ball.
We quickly realized what our neighbors already knew. Boats were tying off to their bow cleats with an extra line to stop the banging. The tide and current were at odds, and the boat had no idea which way to point.
We adjusted our setup and got it under control, just in time for the wind to ramp up.
That first night was rough. Neither of us slept much. Between the wind, the current, and the mooring ball tapping like a drummer under our bunk, it was a full-on nautical symphony.
Exploring the Land and Sea
The next day brought calmer conditions, and we were finally able to get off the boat.
We loaded the dinghy with our beach gear, a couple of cold beers, and set off to explore. We found a great little spot to snorkel, then discovered a quiet beach to set up and relax.
Later that day, we stopped at the park beach to hang out with some of our fellow cruisers. It felt good to connect with the people we’d been waving at from a distance.
Wind, Again
That night, we checked the weather again. More wind was on the way.
We were ready to move on, but the weather had other plans. We called the park office and extended our mooring ball stay.
By day three, wind or no wind, we had to get off the boat. We packed our water and set off to walk the trails on the island.
That’s when we reached Boo Boo Hill, a famous high point covered in driftwood signs left by visiting cruisers. It was there that Rodney had an idea.
Let’s just say driftwood art became part of our next mission. But you’ll learn more about that in the next post.
Until next time,
Patrice & Rodeny